After leaving Derby and Horizontal Falls behind us, the Gibb River Road was too close for us to skip. Whilst we certainly aren’t trying to claim that we have “done the Gibb River Road”, we wanted to enjoy a taste of the region. So, we spent the next three days exploring some of the easier-to-reach highlights along the western side of the iconic road trip route.
There’s a few cool sights worth checking out in the town of Derby before your official road trip begins including the town jetty to witness the extreme tides, the Sculptures on the Marsh which would be great at sunset however, we were too busy watching the mud crab races held at the Mary Island Fishing Club which was where most of the locals seemed to be hanging out too.
The start of the Gibb River Road.
The first section of the route is mostly tarred, followed by a mix of red dirt, gravel and some insane corrugations but it made for a fun drive! We check out the iconic Prison Boab Tree, the Gibb River Road sign, Mowanjum Art and Culture Centre, pass Queen Victoria Head and encounter plenty of cows, kangaroos, black cockatoos, boab trees and termite mounds.
Today is our biggest drive of 3.5 hours and whilst that might not sound long, driving on corrugation for that amount of time can certainly feel like it! By heading to the furthest point we wanted to reach on our journey, it allowed us to cruise our way back along the Gibb over the following days.
☼ Manning Gorge ☼
We visit Mount Barnett Roadhouse, purchase our camping pass, day access fee and souvenir patch before driving in to pick our campsite for the night. The afternoon is spent swimming in Manning river, chatting to others on the road, spotting a little freshwater crocodile and enjoying the sunset before heading back to camp for dinner & bed.
Camp: Manning Gorge Campground, $25 per person per night
Day Access Fee: $10 per person
Waking early to beat the heat, the Manning Gorge walk starts with a swim across the Manning river. Using the plastic drums to keep our backpack and valuables dry, we cross the river to the other side. No crocodiles in sight this morning. The water is fresh but welcoming in the heat. Wade swims the barrels back over as all were left on the bank before we start the 2.5km, relatively easy but sun-drenched trek to the falls. Some sections are rocky and require some rock scrambling over boulders, although we manage the entire walk in our trusty Australian hiking boots (Havaianas thongs / flip-flops).
We spend the morning jumping into the water, swimming across to the waterfall and floating beneath it before finding a spot to sit behind the cascading water, watching the fish and taking in our surroundings. We climb the rocks to the top, where we discover a number of little pools to cool off in. From here, you can see the large river that feeds the waterfall, but without knowing whether it’s home to crocodiles or not, we decide to skip swimming in that one!
Eventually, we jump back in for one last swim in the lower pool before our walk back to camp. The walk takes approximately 1 hour each way. The best part of this walk is that it starts and ends with a refreshing river crossing swim, allowing you to cool off on both sides of the walk.
Once back at the river, we swim, have a go on the rope swing and relax on the sandy shore before packing up camp and topping up fuel at Mount Barnett Station (at $3.60 per litre!).
We head back along the Gibb River Road for our next stop:
☼ Galvans Gorge ☼
Galvans Gorge is only a short 750m walk from the car park along an easy bush track with a little rock scramble at the end.
Surrounded by towering rock walls, the swimming hole is absolutely beautiful. There’s a tree with a rope swing to enjoy and an iconic boab tree perched at the top of the falls. We spot fish and little freshwater turtles as we swim across to sit under the waterfall.
Keep your eyes peeled for the iconic Aboriginal rock art on the right-hand side of the falls not far from the rope swing. I find these rock paintings so beautiful and fascinating!
Not far from Galvans, you’ll find the next gorge and swimming hole on our list:
☼ Adcock Gorge ☼
The drive into Adcock Gorge is bumpy and much more of a 4×4 track, with deep holes, a small rock climb and a couple of small water crossings. It isn’t clear where to park or how much further you could actually drive as the track becomes increasingly narrow and rocky, so we decided to pull up and walk the rest of our way in.
The water in the first section of Adcock Gorge is stagnant but after scrambling further over the rocks, we discover the amazing swimming hole hidden from plain sight. We swam with the local sooty grunters and enjoyed the refreshing water, even though the waterfall itself was only trickling at this time of year.
Our last swim spot but definitely not the least:
☼ Bell Gorge ☼
The turn-off to Dalmanyi (Bell Gorge) had us driving along some pretty bad corrugations and passing through a number of deep water crossings. We check out the campground before driving a further 10km for the gorge walk, as we heard the lighting is best in the mid to late afternoon.
Located in the Wunaamin Conservation Park, one word comes to mind: Wow! – This gorge is absolutely insane!
The cascading waterfall sits above the huge gorge, with the afternoon sun hitting the surrounding cliffs and casting an incredible red glow across the landscape. We spend our time swimming and exploring the top of the falls.
Once you cross the upper pool, there is a walking track that leads along the gorge and down to the lower pools which looked amazing for a swim. However, with sunset approaching, we decide to save this for our next visit on the Gibb where we can spend more time without rushing.
Bell Gorge is definitely one spot not to miss!
Back at camp, we cook dinner and treat ourselves to the luxury of hot showers and toilets although humans aren’t the only ones enjoying these luxuries. Be sure to look out for frogs, especially in the toilet as one little frog tried to high-five me as he hid beneath the toilet seat!
Camp: Dulundi (Silent Grove) Campground, $20 per person per night
Park Entry Fee: $17 per vehicle
☼ Other Highlights ☼
Whilst some stretches of the drive can feel like a whole lot of nothing, the scenery is beautiful. There’s a few spots worth pulling into for the views, or spots to try your luck at fishing or to enjoy lunch and a swim. Be mindful that you are in croc country which means you have to be croc-wise! Always check for local advice before entering the water.
Worth checking out is the free camp at Dog Chain Creek, where you’ll find a great little spot by the creek, complete with your own private rope swing and a fire pit made from rocks.
On our drive towards Manning river, we pass over Lennard River and spot a bunch of school kids swimming in the river and people fishing from the bank. A couple of days later, on our return journey, we spot a freshwater crocodile chilling in the exact same spot the kids had been swimming! As soon as he notices us, he disappears beneath the water to hide. It’s a beautiful spot to stop, fish, relax and explore the area, although our little croc encounter is a good reminder of who we share these waterways with.
☼ Windjana Gorge ☼
Bandilngan (Windjana Gorge) National Park is our next and final stop along this stretch of the Gibb River Road. The Lennard River runs through the gorge, with the walking track cutting through the Napier Range, where you can wander between its towering limestone walls and follow the riverbank (or as close as safely permitted).
No swimming is allowed here due to the presence of freshwater crocodiles, with a warning sign also advising of a recent estuarine (saltwater) crocodile sighting in the area! Makes witnessing the kids swimming in the Lennard River a couple of days earlier seem a little scarier! We spot a couple of freshwater crocodiles sunbaking along the riverbank. What a lovely place to finish our Gibb River Road adventure.
Park Entry Fees: $17.00 per vehicle
Three days was never going to be enough to explore everything the Gibb River Road has to offer, and that was never our goal. We know we only scratched the surface but it made us more excited to return one day when we venture off on a lap of Australia. Until then, this was just a taste of the iconic Gibb River Road.
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