A once-in-a-lifetime adventure had us travelling by seaplane into the remote Kimberley region of Western Australia for a magical 24 hours at one of the world’s most remarkable natural wonders – Horizontal Falls. With an overnight stay aboard a luxury vessel, we had the opportunity to fully immerse ourselves in the experience and witness the dramatic tidal changes that create this extraordinary phenomenon. As luck would have it, we’d timed our visit perfectly as we experienced one of the largest tidal ranges of the season and it did not disappoint!
Known as Garaan-ngaddim by the local Dambimangari people, these incredible falls were created during the Lalai (Dreamtime) by the writhing body of the Woongudd – the ancestral creator snake whose powerful strikes shaped the dramatic rock gorges of Talbot Bay. Today, the rushing waters of the falls are seen as the active movement of the Woongudd herself, while the calm intervals represent the spirit at rest.
Our adventure at Horizontal Falls.
Our adventure began with a scenic seaplane flight, gliding above the town of Derby, over the surrounding mudflats, King Sound and the turquoise waters of the Buccaneer Archipelago before getting our first glimpse of Horizontal Falls from above. Our pilot made several loops to ensure both sides of the plane could enjoy the incredible views before coming in for a water landing in Talbot Bay.
Greeted by the crew on the main pontoon, we put on our life jackets and headed out for our first boat ride through the falls. The excitement amongst the crew was contagious as we’d arrived during one of the largest tidal changes they’d seen this season, with the following morning expected to be spectacular!
Our first ride had us passing through the “wide gap” multiple times, enjoying both a scenic and slightly thrill-seeking ride as the water rushed between the towering cliffs. We admired “narrow gap” from a safe distance. Seeing the sheer force of the rapids was incredible to witness with just how much water was flowing through. Passing through the narrow gap is no longer allowed but I’m honestly surprised that it ever was!
Over the course of our stay, we experienced the falls at three different stages of the tide and at different times: midday, late afternoon and sunrise. Each offered a different perspective as the water levels and direction changed and the sunlight transformed the landscape around us.
The adventures continued as we encountered the local tawny nurse sharks and large batfish at the main pontoon, followed by a refreshing swim in the Marine Viewing Platform. We enjoyed scenic cruises through the crystal-blue waters of Talbot Bay, admired the ancient rock formations of Cyclone Creek, a cruise up Poulton Creek, as well as a guided fishing charter. Of course, Wade wasn’t going to pass up an opportunity to go fishing in the Kimberley, managing to go out twice! Even though we only caught a few small fish the scenery alone made it worthwhile.
A luxury overnight stay.
Our accommodation for the evening was aboard an all inclusive luxury vessel tucked away in a secluded bay where we were wined and dined until our hearts were content.
From the moment we arrived, the crew made us feel incredibly welcome. The chef absolutely spoiled us throughout our stay, beginning with a delicious gourmet lunch of crispy-skin barramundi and sponge cake for dessert. As the afternoon drew to a close, we made our way to the rooftop lounge for sunset drinks and canapés, enjoying the beautiful Kimberley surroundings before heading downstairs for dinner. Quite possibly the best steak I’ve ever eaten, it came with delicious sides and both chimichurri and peppercorn sauce, followed by a pavlova-style meringue for desert.
The evening continued on the top deck with more drinks as we got to know the other guests, sharing stories and spotting garfish and squid swimming beneath us in the underwater deck lights. With all meals, drinks and activities included, there was nothing more to do than sit back, relax and enjoy the experience. The crew were absolutely fantastic, making the entire stay feel that little bit more special.
One last ride through the falls.
An early 6:30 AM start had us heading back to Horizontal Falls for our third and final ride. Overnight, the tide had dropped dramatically. A dark band along the surrounding cliffs revealed just how high the water had previously reached, making it hard to fathom how much the landscape could change in such a short amount of time.
The volume of water rushing through was absolutely insane, with a wall of water estimated around 4m dropping between the narrow gap. To top it off, the morning sunlight gave the ancient rock formations their signature warm glow. Incredible.
We enjoyed breakfast back onboard before packing our bags and saying goodbye to the wonderful crew but the Kimberley had one last surprise for us! As we cruised our way back to the main pontoon, a 3m saltwater crocodile swam alongside the boat – what a way to finish an already unforgettable adventure!
We boarded the seaplane that took off from the waters of Talbot Bay, taking in the scenic views one last time before arriving back at Derby Airport.
From incredible tides and breathtaking scenery, to wildlife encounters, delicious food and a wonderful crew, our overnight adventure at Horizontal Falls exceeded all expectations and was an absolute highlight of the Kimberley region.
Leave a Reply