Ischia, Italy

Ischia, Italy

It was in Edinburgh that we learnt my Nonna was flying from Australia to her home island of Ischia in Italy so we decided to change our route. Our original plan involved spending more time in Eastern Europe followed by a 3 night stopover in Dubai on the way home. We hadn’t booked accommodation in Dubai yet, were reaching the end of our budget and heard from other travellers that Dubai gets expensive. I was so excited to hear my Nonna was flying over and I wasn’t sure if I’d ever get the opportunity to be in Ischia with her again so it only made sense to change our travel plans and fly to Italy! And it was the best decision ever.

It had been almost nine years since I had spent two months on the island in the summer time with my mum, Nonna and sister and I wanted to show Wade where my family came from. Booking cheap flights through wizz air, we left Prague for Naples and I forgot just how crazy this city was. We got to the port in Naples and all I can say is WOW – People were pushing and shoving everywhere in the largest most unorganised line of people trying to buy ferry tickets whilst yelling loudly at each other. Although, coming from an Italian family, I’m sure they were just talking.

After a scenic ferry ride, passing the island of Procida in the Gulf of Naples with silhouette views of volcano Mount Vesuvius in the background, we arrived on the beautiful island of Ischia! It was so good to see my Nonna, her sister and to give them the biggest hug! Even though it had been so long, the island and the people had hardly changed and the memories came flooding back!

With 10 days in Ischia, we head to the town of Campagnano to stay with my Nonna in her brothers house. As crazy as the island and the Italians are, 10 days was perfect and exactly what we needed – amazing food, sun, beaches, fresh fruit, shopping, home-made wine, jumping off rocks and swimming in the beautiful ocean, exploring castles and catching up with relatives.

We went to Ischia Ponte, home to the islands most iconic landmark Castello, known otherwise as Aragonese Castle, which was built on volcanic rock in 474 BC. We explored the castle before taking a swim underneath its height in the beautiful clear waters.

When I visited previously our favourite swimming spot was located at Cartaromana where beautiful waters greeted you from the rocky beach front. At the far end of the beach was a thermal hot spring where people would bath for ‘healing’. Throughout the years rocks have collapsed which has restricted access to the beach. I took Wade for a swim and whilst it was still amazing, it just wasn’t the same.

We would spend most days at what our family called ‘Fatso Beach’ – No offence meant, it’s just a nickname the beach got over time as it appeared to be a meeting spot for overweight women who enjoyed wearing the briefest swimwear with their hairy underarms showing (and the rest). The beach is also a filming spot for the movie ‘The Talented Mr Ripley’ and had great views of the Castello.

We caught a bus to Casamicciola and Lacco Ameno to check out Ischia’s famous rock formation – the mushroom or Il fungo before shopping around the cutest touristy shops. We did attempt to catch the bus around to other parts of the island but its typical for them to run on their own time, or not to run at all ! We walked back to the Castello for a swim until our bus came past to take us home.

As we weren’t having much luck with the buses, our relatives Nancy and Sal offered to take us on a driving tour of the whole island. We saw Mount Epomeo from the lookout before heading to the town of Forio to see Chiesa Del Soccorso church and Citara beach below. We continued our drive around the island, through narrow streets (you’d think they were one-way) before reaching the beautiful seaside town of Sant’Angelo. This picture-perfect town had beautiful beaches, shops and cafes. We drove to the top of the hill in Serrara Fontana for amazing views down below to Sant’Angelo as the sun was setting.

above: Chiesa Del Soccorso / Mount Epomeo / Sant’Angelo

The view from Nancy & Sal’s house was beautiful as we gazed across the bluest water with views of the Island of Capri. After the drive, Nancy invited us back to her mums house for some pizza. We were still full from lunch but thought one slice won’t hurt! Little did we know that a small bite to eat was 1 pizza EACH awaiting us, and don’t forget the fruit for dessert!

We drove to the town of Barano with my Nonna and her Sister to swim at Maronti beach. Afterwards, we wandered the streets of the main shopping district near Ischia Porto then onto Via Roma stopping to do some local liqueur tastings like Limoncello (lemon), Meloncello (rockmelon) and Rucolino (rocket).

Ischia is big on their celebrations especially when it comes to the Catholic Church. During the summer months they go all out with fiestas and fireworks almost every weekend. Wade & I were on the bus home from Via Roma when it stopped in the middle of the street in Cartaromana as people swarmed the streets singing, dancing and letting off fireworks. We enjoyed the display before laughing at my Nonna who was hopping on the same bus to come home.

I laughed at my cute Nonna each morning as she put on her apron and asked what we wanted for lunch at 07:30 in the morning! It works out perfectly though when lunch is prepared early in the morning, we can all head to the beach until 1pm before heading home to the delicious meal that’s been preprepared. As all the shops close for lunch, it’s the perfect time to eat lots of food, drink lots of wine then have a siesta. Waking up in the afternoon, it’s time to head back down to the shops or the beach for another swim.

Whilst on the island, we helped Nonna cook some of our favourite dishes including slow cooked rabbit, beautiful pasta with tomato salad and pane di casa, zucchini flower donuts, meatballs, moulinyan (eggplant dish) and even spent the day making sauce bottles with fresh tomatoes for pasta, storing them in clean Peroni bottles! We were always spoilt with amazing food.

I love ischia! The smell of the summer air! The produce is so fresh and everyone is crazy which makes it fun to people watch. We had both eaten our weight in amazing food and were both excited but sad that our adventures were almost coming to an end….