We were dropped at a place that appeared to be the middle of nowhere. I feel most people were confused at this particular spot known as La Spezia and without prior research, some opted to stay in the town for ease to the Busabout bus. However the real highlight for this region is the Cinque Terre, A UNESCO world heritage site on the coast of the Italian Riviera.
If you didn’t already know, Cinque Terre means five lands or five villages, each perched on the rugged cliff-side overlooking the beautiful sea and I really recommend staying in 1 of the 5 towns to get the best experience. After standing confused at the main train station in La Spezia, we finally boarded a rattling train that would take us on our way. I peeped through the train window as gaps appeared in the tunnel showing the pristine waters and everything I had read about this region – welcome to the Cinque Terre!
There are a few ways to get around this region. Purchasing a train pass will get you between towns with ease, jumping on a boat ride is a great way to see the towns from a different angle but the most rewarding way is to walk between each town. Unfortunately the year prior to us visiting the Cinque Terre, the region was hit with major storms, disrupting the coastal walking tracks (between the second, third and fourth towns) and devastating locals with floods and landslides.
Town 1 – Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore is the first town that will great you as you exit the train station and the town we opted to stay in. For such a small town there is so much to explore from small alley ways, rocky beaches and an open terrace where locals sung and danced to live music. After checking into our accommodation located right on the main street (there’s only one!) we head for the ocean side.
Passing under a tunnel you will be greeted by a beautiful harbour filled with small colourful boats and pristine waters that most people will be swimming in after jumping from the rocks above. Facing the ocean, follow the trail to your left leading up a slight hillside then look back – this is the view of Riomaggiore you don’t want to miss!
Continue on for a great swim spot. One thing people don’t realise, especially coming from Australia where beaches are always surrounded by sand, is that the Cinque Terre beaches along with most beaches in Europe are pebbles. They do make for an eventful trip from your beach towel to the water, especially as the sun heats them up but the water is so refreshing when you make it there. We found the best gelato shop in Riomaggiore which had typical sorbet flavours like lemon and lime but intriguing and beautiful ones like fig, kiwi, watermelon & rockmelon.
Town 2 – Manarola
Veering off to your right will lead you to the beginning of the coastal walking trail to the next town; Manarola. Love locks, amazing restaurants, fresh seafood, beautiful wines & a cute, lived-in Italian town – although this would explain almost all the towns in the Cinque Terre. It was in this town we found our favourite swimming spot. It may be different now but if you continue along the coastal walking route towards town three, just before the fence warding off people from the landslide you will see an unused boat ramp which was perfect for laying down your towel to relax and swim in the clear waters.
Town 3 – Corniglia
Corniglia sits the highest out of all the towns and has the steepest walk down to the beach but it is just as rewarding. Most people don’t realise this town has a beach. Walking through the streets to get there is intriguing as you wind your way through the cobblestone maze, surrounded by houses where people & cats live their day to day lives.
Town 4 – Vernazza
Vernazza is truly a beautiful town but appeared to be the worst affected town from the prior storms. Still, the colourful buildings bring you cheer and it’s always fun lazing on the rocks on the seaside, jumping and swimming around whilst watching small boats pull in.
Town 5 – Monterosso
Monterosso, to me, was the most touristy town of them all. It did indeed have a sandy beach but it was lined with hundreds of day beds that were charged out at a price which reminded me of most touristy places within Europe. There was a hidden part of the town filled with shops to explore and whilst it was the busiest it was still beautiful.
For the walking track, I recommend to start from Monterosso to Vernazza – You will be rewarded with beautiful views of high rock jumps, farms, waterfalls but the end is the most rewarding… I’ll let you judge it for yourself but not much can beat this view overlooking Vernazza!
Undoubtedly, the Cinque Terre is the number one place in Italy for food (apart from my Nonnas home island of Ischia, where we always enjoy fresh Italian cooking). I’m not sure if the other regions in Italy choose to cook poorly for the tourists, but they should really stop. The seafood is tasty, authentic and fresh. I even enjoyed anchovies which I usually hate & pick off my pizzas. The region has its own vineyards which you will see perched on the hills and the white wines are the best I’ve had to date. All towns are perfect to view the sunset as it lowers over the sea with a perfect seafood meal on the table and local wine in hand. There’s lots to love about the Cinque Terre!
ONLY HAPPY WHEN I TRAVEL 